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Wednesday, 9 February 2011

Early Christian Sites in Ulster

Nenrdum Monastic Site is a place of rare beauty and tranquillity that is well hidden on the shores of Strangford Lough, near to the town of Comber Co Down. It is an excellent example of a pre-Norman island monastic site, which dates back to the 5th century and had remained lost to us until Mr Reeves, a historian, rediscovered it in 1844. Later in 1922 Mr H C Lawlor oversaw excavations and restoration work at the site in 1922 under the oversight of Belfast Natural History and Philosophical Society.

St Machaoi founded the monastic community and there are reports that in 976AD the Abbot was burned in his house. This is very possible as Viking fleets were active in Strangford Lough in the 9th and 10th centuries. Saint Mochaoi was born in Ireland and it is alleged that he was baptised by Saint Patrick who appointed him abbot over Nendrum.  The Tripartite Life of Patrick, written in about 900, tells how St Patrick converted the young swineherd, Mochaoi, and left him with a gospel and crozier. Saints Finian, who built an abbey in the nearby town of Newtownards and Colman were said to be among his disciples. Today St Mochaoi has been anglicised as St Mahee pronounced Mahee.

The site was later documented in papal taxation records as a parish church in 1306, however by the 15th century it had become abandoned when the parish was moved to Tullynakill on the mainland. The site became lost until it was rediscovered by Mr Reeves and subsequent restoration work following excavations in the 1920s restored the site to its current condition.

The site consists of three dry-stone walls, which define an inner area, which contains a church ruin, the most notable feature of which is a sundial, the remains of an Irish Round Tower and a graveyard. Moving to the middle enclosure foundation remains of huts and workshops can be found, however little is known about the third enclosure defined by the remains of the outer wall. From the inner enclosure there is great opportunity for photography and taking in the views across Whiterock and the drumlins of Co Down.

In relatively recent times a further discovery was made – evidence of a tidal mill form the early Christian period (c787AD) was identified. The keen eye can identify its features on the foreshore of Mahee Island. The tidal mill was undoubtedly associated with the adjacent monastic site.

What makes this discovery of particular interest is that tidal mills previously discovered had vertical wheels, while the Nendrum example provides evidence of the first horizontal tidal mill to be found in the British Isles. Nendrum provides a new chapter to early Christian industrial archaeology. What was believed to have been a fishpond was in reality evidence of a stone built tidal mill. The tidal mill has been dated to 619AD and has been associated with the monastic site. The photograph shows the remains of a landing stage for boats arriving with grain for milling. Other man made rock deposits is what is left of the dam for holding back the tidal waters.

Nendrum is a site well worth visiting and it is amazing that it is not better known. There is a small museum in a visitor’s centre in which visitors can view various artefacts and a multimedia presentation. Other artefacts associated with the site are kept in the Ulster Museum. Access to Nendrum is via Killinchy Road just outside Comber.

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